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Batteries: how to sell them? Money from garbage: how much you can earn on old batteries A simple business like premium batteries. |
Trade in auto components is quite a profitable business, as evidenced by the constant growth in the number of new stores in cities. Online stores selling spare parts generally grow like mushrooms after rain. And each has its own priority direction of development. This may be the promotion of a brand, or the sale of spare parts for certain brands of cars, as well as specialization in some groups of goods. From the latter, I would like to discuss the relevance and profitability of organizing sales of batteries for cars. When opening parts stores, most entrepreneurs treat battery sales as a secondary product to the assortment and rely on consumables, suspension parts and, less often, body parts, which they try to keep in stock. However, in fact, if you make small calculations, namely, take the car park of a city with a population of about 500,000 people, then the average for the country is about 300,000 cars, both cars and trucks. Of these, the share of new cars up to 3 years on average does not exceed 15%, that is, somewhere around 45,000 units. The rest of the cars over 3 years old become potential candidates for battery replacement, as their service life ranges from 3 to 6 years, depending on the manufacturer and operating conditions. It is roughly estimated that the battery market capacity of such a city is about 50,000 units per year, which is a very good volume for this business. Typically, spare parts stores that hold batteries for the range sell an average of 5 to 20 batteries per month and consider these volumes to be normal for this product group. In fact, it is realistic to sell 100-150 batteries per month and make decent money on it. After all, the average retail price of a battery for all types of cars (cars + trucks) is about 8,000 rubles, the average markup is about 30%. Plus, add to this the ability to organize the acceptance of old batteries from customers, on which you can also earn money by selling them in bulk to secondary metal enterprises. For example, accepting an old battery with a capacity of 55Ah will cost an average of 250 rubles, and selling for scrap, at the rate of 30 rubles per 1 kg, with a battery weight of 14 kg - 420 rubles. The end results are easy to calculate. All these figures are based on the experience of some stores that have decided to develop this theme and have achieved good results. For some, the sale and maintenance of batteries in general has become the main direction of development, and the sale of spare parts is secondary. Moreover, the selection of a battery is much easier and takes less time than, for example, the selection of spare parts for foreign cars, and profitability is often higher. Therefore, many companies open specialized online stores selling batteries and related products and actively promote them online, highlighting them as a separate line of business. Coming to any store, whether it is a fashion boutique selling designer clothes, a grocery store or a kiosk with sweets, we are forced to make a choice. And he will be more conscious if he is guided not only by emotions, but also by technical information. But the sales assistant must provide it. In the case of sausage, this is, for example, the percentage of meat to the rest of the ingredients, with a dress, it is the composition of the fabric. What should a battery dealer know? We will talk about this further. 1. What technology is used to make the battery? The answer should be something like this: all batteries are produced according to one of three main technologies. The cheapest - antimony, more perfect and expensive - calcium, optimal in price and parameters - hybrid. 3. What is the warranty period for the selected battery model? All self-respecting manufacturers of batteries provide a guarantee for their products. It is at least 1 year, in most cases - 2 years, and sometimes up to three years. The seller must be aware of this. 4. What is the difference between different brands of batteries? This is a topical issue for many, especially when it comes to batteries with similar technical parameters and a big difference in cost. Ask the seller about the differences in more detail, perhaps it’s not worth overpaying for the brand? 5. Is the battery size suitable for a specific car? Please note that the seat is designed for a specific battery. In addition, there are nuances with the polarity and location of the terminals. 6. Do I need to charge the battery before installation? All modern batteries are sold, either dry-charged (most often, motorcycle batteries), or filled with electrolyte and completely ready for use. 7. Why are there calcium plates in the battery? To avoid rapid self-discharge, rapid evaporation of distilled water , improve the corrosion resistance of cathodes. In other words, to make maintenance-free, reliable and unpretentious in operation. 8. What does the marking on the battery case mean? These are encrypted characteristics, in particular, capacity, voltage, number of "cans". 9. How to determine the optimal battery capacity for a car? To do this, it is best to use the vehicle operating instructions, since even the same make and model of cars can have different equipment. The seller must have this information in a catalog or computer. 10. What should I do if my car battery suddenly runs out? In no case do not rush to buy a new one, but first try to find the reason for this state of affairs. Perhaps the answer lies in faulty electrical equipment. Thus, having received answers to these questions, you can not only choose the best battery option, but also, possibly, save a considerable amount due to the absence of the need to make such a purchase. Dare! Why lead and sulfuric acid? Often buyers ask the question - are there any more modern batteries for sale? Why do sellers offer only "traditional" lead-acid batteries, invented back in 1859? And why didn’t more modern nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal hydride, lithium-ion batteries come to replace them? They are more capacious, they do not contain toxic acid and lead. The answer is simple - they have disadvantages that are unacceptable for car batteries. Nickel-cadmium has a high level of self-discharge, a “memory effect” that makes it difficult to recharge, and a greater toxicity of cadmium than lead. Nickel-metal hydride batteries have a higher self-discharge rate. Lithium-ion batteries are explosive, expensive and lose their charge at low temperatures. Charging a lithium-ion battery is not easy: you need a special charger that works according to a certain algorithm. So "by the sum of indicators" it is lead-acid batteries that today remain the best option of all possible. Calcium or "hybrid"? Buyers are scared by the word "hybrid" on the battery label. And the seller cannot always explain what this “hybridity” is. A standard battery consists of six battery "cans" connected in series in one case. In each jar, positive and negative electrode plates alternate, covered with a layer of active mass - for the positive ones from lead dioxide, for the negative ones - from spongy lead. Electrodes (they are made in the form of gratings) are made of lead alloy. But pure lead is a fragile material, and therefore it is alloyed - small portions of antimony or calcium are added to the alloy. There are practically no “pure” antimony batteries today - antimony is a catalyst for the electrolysis of water, and such a battery often “boils”. To solve the problem of boiling over, antimony was replaced with calcium. So now the market sells either "hybrid" batteries (positive electrodes with the addition of antimony, and negative ones with the addition of calcium), or purely "calcium" ones (all electrodes are made of a lead-calcium alloy). The "calcium" battery has its advantages - in particular, low self-discharge (loss of 50% capacity in 18-20 months) and minimal water consumption due to evaporation (1 g / Ah). However, they have a drawback - after two or three deep discharges, such a battery cannot be charged. The "hybrid" battery does not have such problems. But the water consumption in it is one and a half to two times more than that of the "calcium" - the presence of antimony affects. And the level of self-discharge is higher (loss of half the capacity in 12 months). But at the same time, “hybrid” batteries also do not require “maintenance”, that is, adding distilled water to the electrolyte. Liquid or gel? The battery electrodes are placed in an electrolyte, in a solution of sulfuric acid. Accordingly, there are two types of batteries: with liquid electrolyte and "non-liquid" electrolyte. The most common batteries with liquid electrolyte are simpler and, accordingly, cheaper. In addition, the energy reserve in them is enough for all consumers in a standard car. As for batteries with a "non-liquid" electrolyte (sometimes they are all mistakenly called "gel" in a crowd), the question is more complicated. Batteries in which the electrolyte is really brought to the state of a gel using silica gels are currently used extremely rarely: only in motorcycles, and even then exclusive ones. In batteries with a "non-liquid" electrolyte, all the free space between the electrodes is filled with microporous material, which is impregnated with electrolyte. This is AGM (Absorbed Glass Material) technology, which provides an increase in the efficiency of the active mass due to better acid absorption, which gives higher starting current, deep discharge resistance, and durability. It is these batteries that are best suited for vehicles with a Start & Stop system and a brake energy recovery system. But they are not "gel" ... On the market today, batteries with an "intermediate" technology - EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) are in demand. It is also called "wet electrode technology". In such a battery, a kind of microfiber “envelopes” are put on the electrodes. They also retain the electrolyte, which provides stability to cyclic discharge. But the battery itself is filled with liquid electrolyte. Polarity - Asia or Europe? Before offering the battery to the buyer, it is worth asking him in which country his car was assembled. Because Asian and European cars are designed for a different arrangement of terminals on the battery. Simply put, “straight”, it is also “European”, polarity is when, with the battery position “terminals closer to you”, the positive terminal is on the left and the negative terminal is on the right. For a battery with a “reverse”, that is, “Asian”, polarity, everything is exactly the opposite. In addition, the diameter of the contact terminals may differ for "Europe" and "Asia". For example, on the Euro (Type 1) type, the “positive” terminal is 19.5 mm in diameter, and the “negative” terminal is 17.9 mm. And for the Asia type (Type 3), the “plus” has a diameter of 12.7 mm, and the “minus” has a diameter of 11.1 mm. Therefore, it is still possible to install a Japanese battery on a European car (by the way, this includes the “Koreans” assembled in Russia): there are adapters from thin terminals to “thick” European ones. In addition, there are several types of batteries. And it may well be that the "Asian" simply will not take its regular place due to the fact that it is smaller or larger ... What really matters Sellers say: the buyer almost always does not know what he really needs. And because he has all these questions about "calcium", "gel", "lithium-ion", "Japanese" batteries. That is why it is important for the seller to explain to the buyer what he wants - and why he wants it! So, the most important for the battery are three parameters. 1. Rated electrical capacity (Ah), it is determined by the energy output of a fully charged battery during a twenty-hour discharge. For example, the designation 6ST-60 means that the battery will deliver a current of 3 A for 20 hours and at the same time at the end the voltage at the terminals will not drop below 10.8 V. However, this does not mean at all a linear dependence of the discharge time on the discharge current. The battery will not be able to consistently give energy for a whole hour. There is also an "unofficial" parameter - "reserve capacity". It is measured in minutes - how long the battery can work for itself and for the generator. For example, the reserve capacity of a passenger car battery with a load of 25 A and a voltage drop of up to 10.5 V should be at least 90 minutes. 2. Rated voltage - for a passenger car battery, it is 12 V. It can decrease when the battery is discharged and the current load is high. But experimenting by installing a battery with a higher voltage is not worth it ... 3. Cold cranking current (CCA - Cold Cranking Amperes). This parameter is especially important in Russia: it represents the amount of current that the battery is capable of delivering at a temperature of -18 ° C for 10 seconds, with a voltage of at least 7.5 V. The higher the cold scroll current, the easier the engine will start in winter. All these parameters are in the marking on the battery case. What to talk about with the buyer? First of all, the seller must listen to the fact that the client does not shine well, spins weakly and for a short time, and not everyone has wires for “lighting up”. And then ask: a) How old is the car? b) Country of manufacture? c) Does the buyer travel in winter or does he put him on a leash in cold weather? d) Is the vehicle equipped with Start&Stop and Brake Energy Regeneration? e) Is the car parked in the garage at night or “under the windows” in the yard? f) Has the car been tuned, has additional electrical equipment been installed on it: heaters, emergency lighting equipment, etc.? g) And the most important question - how much does the buyer expect to buy? If the buyer has an “older” or tuned car, then it is worth recommending a battery with a larger capacity, for example, instead of 50 Ah, take 55 Ah. But do not "overdo it" - generators have a strictly defined power and it is not recommended to overload them. Yes, and forcing the buyer to pay extra money is also not worth it. If the car is an “SUV” or “SUV” and fans of country trips drive it, then they should recommend an AGM battery. These batteries have a fairly high, up to 135%, cold scroll current, higher cycling stability and a very high deep discharge capability. Selling batteries via the Internet - a new format for an old business Why the Internet?
Of course, every new business project needs a thorough calculation, drawing up a business plan, searching for suppliers and a sales market. But the general principle of doing business on the Web deserves close attention. To abandon this direction today means to give competitors time to maneuver. Perhaps tomorrow it will take an order of magnitude more money and effort to open an on-line store selling batteries. The car battery acceptance business works according to a simple scheme: "I bought used devices - repaired or resold - made a profit." To do this, we register a company, obtain a license to work with hazardous waste, look for premises and equipment, and form distribution channels. The result - profit within six months and profitability of 20%. “I will buy old batteries” - behind this seemingly banal ad is a profitable business with a profit margin of more than 20%. The battery acceptance business is not only a profitable business option, but also a direction for protecting the environment from human waste. Technically, a car battery can last from 1 to 5 years, after which it needs to be replaced or repaired. Spent batteries can be disassembled for spare parts or restored to working condition. Both in the first and in the second case, it will be possible to sell them 2-5 times more expensive than the purchase price. Reference: In the developed countries of the world, the acceptance and disposal of car batteries is supported by the state due to the high toxicity of lead and sulfuric acid contained in them. For example, in Norway, firms engaged in such activities are exempted from paying environmental fees. Business ModelThe battery recycling firm is a way to generate income from recycling. Why is such an idea seen as a profitable recycled business?
Reference: In 2016, the number of cars on the roads of Russia amounted to 56.6 million units. Assuming that batteries are changed every three years on average, up to 19 million such devices end up in landfills every year. Service description - where to start?Acceptance of failed car batteries can be the basis for building two business options with the possibility of combining them. Reference: Disassembly of the device in order to extract valuable substances (lead, hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, etc.) and parts is carried out only on expensive equipment, which requires a starting investment of 1 million rubles. Buying batteries - what to look for?At the stage of buying failed car batteries, you can use two proven methods:
Non-working mechanisms assembled in such ways can have one of five breakdown options, each of which implies a certain order of subsequent actions. Premises and equipment - what you need to know?You should start buying car batteries by preparing the premises. Here it is important to consider three nuances:
The Sanitary and Epidemiological Service (SES) issues a permit for activity based on the results of the inspection of the premises. To carry out events for the purchase of batteries “from hand”, you also need your own car with a trunk (transporting used devices in the passenger compartment is harmful to health). Setting up a business - what documents are required?For the business of accepting car batteries, a license from Rosprirodnadzor is required (Federal Law “On Licensing Certain Types of Activities” dated May 4, 2011 N 99-FZ). To obtain it, it is necessary to register an individual entrepreneur or LLC with the tax authorities.
After the company is registered (its owners have received an extract from the ERGUL or EGRIP), you can begin to obtain a license for the collection, transportation, storage and processing of hazardous and hazardous waste (Federal Law “On Amendments to Certain Legislative Acts of the Russian Federation and Recognition as Lost the force of certain provisions of the legislative acts of the Russian Federation "of June 29, 2015 N 203-FZ). This will require:
Reference: The battery contains substances that can be assigned to different classes according to the degree of their harmful effects on the environment (acids - class I, lead, alkalis - class II, helium compounds - class III, sulfates - class IV, plastic - class V). ). |
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