It's nice when there is a greenhouse created in the country at home. And the point is not so much in saving money, but in the fact that we are building for ourselves and with love. Therefore, greenhouse, and other vegetables seem to us especially delicious. But sometimes the creation of a greenhouse with your own hands makes the summer resident think about it. Where to put it? What material to build? Which greenhouse is better? And a host of other questions arise when we plan such a grandiose affair))

Let's start by looking at what kind of greenhouses are, and then I will tell you how to build a greenhouse with my own hands in one weekend.

What are greenhouses

Arched greenhouses

And in winter, snow does not accumulate on such a roof - accordingly, your greenhouse is not threatened by deformation or destruction (unless, of course, you carefully strengthened its frame and foundation).

Greenhouses

Although there is another option: equip the greenhouse. But this is unnecessary trouble: the stove must be regularly heated and constantly monitored. When constructing a winter greenhouse with your own hands, you must definitely put it on a solid foundation and strengthen the base and the roof well. Indeed, under the weight of snow, a structure can easily deform, or even completely collapse, alas ... it happens.

You can build the so-called greenhouse thermos, which is deepened into the ground by 2 m. Accordingly, you need:

1. Dig a pit under it.
2. Strengthen the foundation.
3. To build walls from thermal blocks.
4. Make special insulation.
5. Carry out heating and carry out a lot of labor-intensive and financially expensive work.

Summer is usually called greenhouses, the frame of which is covered with a dense plastic film. This is the simplest and cheapest option for cladding, and with careful use, a plastic film is quite capable of lasting a couple of seasons.

As a rule, a wooden frame is built under the film greenhouses, on which, in the spring, with light movements of our caring handles, a thick plastic film is put on and fastened to the wooden base with ordinary nails with a wide hat (you can also fix it with special construction buttons). And you can use plastic PVC pipes for the frame (). It’s not very difficult to build a film greenhouse with your own hands even for summer residents who do not have good building skills. Therefore, I will tell you about the construction of a film greenhouse with a PVC frame. So, let's get started.

I hope you have already identified an even place for the greenhouse. Next, you need to draw up a construction plan, take into account the cost and cost of the material needed for the construction. And the material will need the following:

•   and which are pre-impregnated to protect against rot. You can cover the wooden parts of the greenhouse with linseed oil 2-3 times, soak it with hot resin, or make firing with an ordinary blowtorch;
• pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
• dense plastic film;
• metal rods (fittings), 1 m high;
• nails and screws;
• special hinges for doors and vents;
• lock and handles (door and window);
• metal loops for fixing PVC pipes (see photo below).

Stage 1

At the corners of the box from the boards, it is necessary to strengthen the reinforcement, as shown in the photo.

Stage 2

The height of the rods above the ground should be at least 60 cm.

Stage 3

Stage 4

Stage 5

Stage 6

Stage 7

Stage 8

Many owners of private homes dream of having a greenhouse on their plots. This agrotechnical construction will help the owners to provide their family with greens and some types of vegetables in late spring or early summer. Well, some designs of greenhouses, involving heating and lighting systems, are used for growing crops all year round.

A greenhouse with your own hands can be built of wood and brick in combination with metal elements, have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing the idea, the place where the greenhouse will be installed is first determined. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this building will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If you choose the "winter" option, you need to know that the construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and it will also require lighting, heating, water supply and ventilation.

Then, you need to choose the material of manufacture and the type of construction of the greenhouse. To dwell on one of them, several most commonly used options will be considered.

The design of greenhouses, in principle, is not very complicated, so any owner of the site can build it independently. To do this, you only need to prepare material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided into types, starting from various criteria - this is the material of manufacture, the shape of the structure, whether it is stationary or temporary.

Greenhouse coating material

To cover greenhouses, several different types of materials are used. They must be transparent, can have shades favorable for plant growth. For example, which has become especially popular recently, sometimes not only a colorless transparent is selected, but also a yellowish or green hue.

KINPLAST company offers high-quality cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses. The material has excellent technical and operational characteristics. KINPLAST is a leading manufacturer of polycarbonate in the domestic market. The range of cellular polycarbonate includes brands such as WOGGEL, a material created in collaboration with foreign colleagues; SKYGLASS - universal polycarbonate with excellent characteristics at an affordable price; as well as specially designed grades of polycarbonate for use in agriculture AgroTITAN.

Often glass is used to cover the walls and roof of the greenhouse. According to its structural structure and transparency, it is excellent for this room, but for the installation of glazing it is necessary to create a particularly reliable strong frame structure, since this material has considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes built from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will cost extremely expensive.

Another option that is most often used to cover greenhouses is a plastic film. It can be used to pull on a frame erected from any material, as it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable, and it is easier to fix it on the crate of the frame.

To determine the choice of material, you need to carefully study its operational characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Material Evaluation Options	Cellular Polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Miniature
Mount and weight	It is lightweight, and in certain designs can be used without additional frame elements, as well as without a foundation.	Glass has the largest weight compared to other coating materials, and choosing it, it will be necessary to consider a reliable frame installed on the foundation.	Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening.   If the material is not reinforced, then it is fixed to the frame through special rails and additionally fixed with thin stretched ropes.
Durability	Polycarbonate as a cover for a greenhouse can last 18–25 years, depending on its quality.   This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure.   Fastened to the frame, it does not deform and does not distort.	Glass can last a long time, as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture.   On the other hand, glass is a brittle and inflexible material, therefore it does not tolerate mechanical stress, heavy loads and deformation of the frame structure.	Polyethylene has the lowest life compared to other coating materials, as it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, from which it is gradually destroyed.   In addition, it can not be called resistant to temperature extremes.
Soundproofing	Cellular polycarbonate dampens the noise of wind and rain, thanks to its structure.	If the installation of the material is performed poorly, then during a strong wind, gusts of air can penetrate inside, and the glass can make a sound.	The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle strongly in the wind.
Appearance	Polycarbonate gives the building an aesthetic appearance and is able to make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory.	Properly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance.	The film looks neat and remains transparent only the first season of its use, and even then - not always.   Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmission.
Security	Polycarbonate has a high strength that exceeds the similar indicator of glass by about 200 times, and is also lighter by about 15 times.   When dropped, the material does not break and cannot be injured by fragments of people inside or near the greenhouse.	Poorly installed glass is extremely dangerous for people working inside.   In addition, if fragments fall into the soil of the greenhouse, then you can seriously injure yourself during the subsequent cultivation of the land. Therefore, if the installation of precisely glass is planned, then it is recommended to entrust its installation to professional craftsmen.	It is completely safe for both people and the soil of the greenhouse.
Care	This material is easy to care for - it is enough to wash it with water, setting a strong pressure in the hose.   However, it should be noted that the dust on the surface of the polycarbonate is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.	Traces of raindrops remain on the glass, and dust is also well retained.   To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to make a lot of physical effort.   It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on the greenhouse roof.	The plastic film is not washed, because after wet cleaning, stains remain on it and it becomes cloudy, which makes it difficult for the full penetration of light inside.   The only way out when heavily soiled is to completely replace the film.
The created microclimate	Polycarbonate is able to reliably insulate the greenhouse and protect plants from the wind.   Vapors deposited on the internal surfaces flow down them into the soil.   In addition, the material not only perfectly transmits light, but also makes it softer and more diffused.   The heat generated by soil and plants is reliably stored indoors, which creates a greenhouse effect.	Glass is not able to create high thermal insulation if it is not metal-plastic constructions with double-glazed windows.   The material perfectly transmits light, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses on a specific bed, which is extremely harmful to plant leaves.	A dense new plastic film is able to create high thermal insulation, but over the season, under the influence of temperatures, sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities.   Therefore, it is recommended that the film coating be changed every year.

After weighing all the “pros” and “cons” of the materials, as well as taking into account the design of the planned structure, it will be possible to choose the type of coating.

Greenhouse Designs

Greenhouses have various designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box, covered with a glazed frame. Structures are also being used that are halfway to the ground. It will be possible to choose one of the varieties only after the owner understands the features of each.

• The simplest design of the greenhouse, which can be built from improvised materials, consists of a conventional box, for example, 2000 × 1500 mm in size, assembled from boards and installed in a favorable area of \u200b\u200bthe house territory. For such a greenhouse, old ones are often used as roofs.

Such greenhouses are commonly used to grow seedlings or greenery from early spring to late autumn.

• Another option for a simple and affordable greenhouse is a simple frame construction made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, fittings, and sometimes even thick steel wire, covered with a plastic film.

If plastic pipes are chosen for the greenhouse, then the frame of them can be made even by women's hands, since this material bends quite easily and holds its shape well.

A similar version of the greenhouse can be used throughout the spring-summer season, starting from spring and ending in late autumn. Convenience of the design consists in the fact that after planting seeds, for example, tomatoes, after seedlings and strengthening, seedlings can not be transplanted. It is simply thinned out, and when the temperature is stable and comfortable for plants, the film is removed from the structure, revealing the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special mesh can be quickly thrown onto the frame created, creating a partial shade, but allowing the light to penetrate into the plants if necessary.

• A more complex structure, which is assembled from a wooden beam and fitted with a film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The size of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary on how much seedlings are planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener.

In this design, a hinged roof is necessarily provided for access to plants by sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal version of the structure, and it is advisable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures it is recommended that vegetables and herbs be grown in open ground.

Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with a film coating

• If you want to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, then you can make a greenhouse from a metal barrel, in which cuts are made in the form of windows. In this design, a transparent polyethylene film is used as a roof - it can be removed at any time, allowing access to air, and if necessary, closed so that the off-season coolness in the night does not cause plants harm.

• A more complex design of the greenhouse, in which it is already possible to install moderate heating and start using it in the very early spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is a full-fledged room, and not only plants, but also the gardener will be protected from the wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense plastic wrap or cellular polycarbonate. When creating a pipe structure, you need to remember that it will turn out to be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the shoots, so to tie it to a place, it is necessary to drive metal corners or reinforcement into the ground.

An interesting solution - the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and accessories to them.

• The capital structure of the greenhouse, equipped with heating and irrigation, can be used throughout the year. In order for such a greenhouse to work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.

This greenhouse is already a real capital building.

To more easily provide heating and water delivery to the premises of the greenhouse, often enough such structures are attached to the south wall of the house. In this case, the building will fulfill the function of a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight the owners not only with fresh vegetables and herbs, but also with the color of ornamental plants.

Sometimes greenhouses are attached to the south side of the house, and they become real "winter gardens"

• Another version of the winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating, is a room that goes half its height into the ground. This structure, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called a “greenhouse-thermos”. To achieve the desired effect, a foundation pit digging for this greenhouse, extending 1600 ÷ 2000 mm deep into the ground. In addition, walls with a height of 500 ÷ 700 mm are erected above the soil surface, and then the whole structure is covered with a frame made of a bar or a metal corner.

Work on the construction of the structure is quite laborious and lengthy, but in the process of its operation it will be possible to save enough on the heating system. One of the important points in the construction of a thermos greenhouse is the arrangement of not only the heating system, but also effective ventilation.

The shape of the greenhouse roof

The next criterion by which greenhouses are divided is the shape of the roof. Insolation, that is, high-quality lighting of the room, and, therefore, the creation of optimal conditions for growing plants, largely depends on this.

• Gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can most often be found in suburban areas, since it is this form that contributes to the effective lighting of the room from above. Subject to the correct location of the greenhouse, the sun will “work” all day from sunrise to sunset, promoting plant growth.

"Classic" option - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter options for greenhouses, since at this time of year the plants are deficient in sunlight.

• Arched construction

Arched structures are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The first ones are usually covered with a plastic film, and the second option most often has a polycarbonate coating. Metal structures can be purchased ready-made, and they will only have to be assembled on the site. Well, the frame of metal-plastic pipes is quite easy to make yourself.

The convenience of such a greenhouse consists not only in its maximum illumination, but also in the fact that snow masses and water do not accumulate on the arched roof, which means that the coating will not be subject to deformation due to the heavy load. Again, it will not be necessary to rise to a height that remove snow from its surface.

• Pent roof

One of the common options for a “serious” greenhouse is the strip foundation

• Under it, according to the marking, a pit-trench is digging, having a depth and width of 300 mm.
• Since the walls of the greenhouse are not so heavy as those of residential buildings, a foundation depth of 300 mm is quite enough to withstand relatively small loads.
• Above the ground, the foundation can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will serve as walls or they will be laid out of brick.
• A sand cushion 50–70 mm thick is laid and tamped into the finished trench, on top of it a layer of the same thickness is poured, crushed stone is distributed.
• Along the trench, formwork of boards and timber is fixed, in which roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
• The next step is to fill the formwork with concrete, distribute it, and then pierce it with a bayonet shovel and gently tap on the formwork to remove air from the solution.
• If the frame will be made of a metal corner or it will be needed to fix the wooden blocks, then sometimes the support posts or pieces of the corner can be immediately embedded in the foundation.

The basis for the greenhouse thermos

For a thermos greenhouse, you need to dig a fairly deep pit, and if you plan to build an agro-technical construction of a large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such manual work will take a lot of time.

• After marking the site, it is recommended to remove the top layer of fertile soil from it. After removal, the soil is piled in a pile, because it is perfect for laying in the beds of a finished greenhouse.
• When digging a pit, among the layers you can stumble on clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for warming a greenhouse.
• The pit is deepened so that the gardener working in the greenhouse feels free, and there is enough free space left over it. To keep the desired temperature in the greenhouse, and not to freeze the soil, it is recommended to deepen the pit by about 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, you will have to raise the side walls, as it will be ideal when the total height of the pit will correspond to the growth of the gardener.

• The width of the greenhouse is usually between two and five meters. If the room is made wider, it will quickly cool down, and lighting and heating will require a large amount of electricity. In addition, the design of the transparent dome will be too complex.
• When digging a pit, a ramp is set up on one side of it, where, together with the erection of the walls, a staircase with several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
• To begin work on the refinement of the walls, a foundation is made for them. To do this, a trench is digging around the perimeter of the pit. After that, formwork is arranged in it and in the same way as in the already considered case, the strip foundation is poured.
• After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to cladding the walls with brick or foam blocks. When laying, one or two ventilation pipes are immediately installed in the wall opposite to the entrance door, at a height of 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.

The ventilation pipe is brought out and raised above the ground by 1000 ÷ 1500 mm.

• Separately, it must be said about the masonry, as in this case, it is made in a special way.

- To save on insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks, which are expensive, you can use clay extracted from the foundation pit, which is mixed with chopped straw and molded adobe bricks from this mixture.

- If there is no desire to waste time, and it is possible to purchase foam blocks, which are called fixed formwork, then you can immediately get "bricks with insulation." The blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed on each other with concrete mortar. Having chosen the last option, it will be necessary to separate the foam wall from the soil surface of the foundation pit with roofing material or plastic film.

After the solution hardens in the blocks, a film or ruberoid is hooked onto it, and the gap remaining between the waterproofing material and the soil wall of the pit is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and tamped periodically with filling.

- If a brick is chosen for wall decoration, then it is insulated from the outside with the help of foam, which is mounted between the brick and the ground wall. Thermal insulation material must also be protected with roofing material. The resulting gap, as in the first case, is filled with soil.

• If the walls rise above the ground by 400 ÷ 600 mm, then they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be finished with a decorative coating - it can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for outdoor use.
• If the walls are low, then after waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered with a corrugated board, fixed to the top of the wall. Decking will ensure the outflow of water, which will drain from the cover of the greenhouse, and keep the walls dry.

Wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation may be wood, or rather, a wooden beam having a cross-sectional size of 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm. Such a foundation is suitable for a greenhouse that is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.

In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time, the wood must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and installed on a sandy, well-packed pillow. Another option - it is raised above the ground using concrete slabs.

The construction of a thermos greenhouse

Installation of all greenhouses takes place in different ways, depending on the type of construction and the period of use of the structure, since the “winter” options require a more thorough approach and additional functions. Probably, it is worth considering this, the most difficult option.

• After the walls are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the frame under the cover of the greenhouse.
• The frame is mounted from a metal profile or wooden beam.

• The first step on the walls of the greenhouse is fixed strapping of timber 100 × 150 mm. Fixing is carried out by anchor fastenings or using embedded mortgage elements.
• The rafter system should be assembled from a bar of the same cross section as the strapping. To install the rafter legs on the harness, marking is carried out, since the rafter pairs must be distributed at the same distance from each other.
• The rafters are fixed to the binding with metal corners, and in the upper part they are interconnected using metal plates or using a ridge board.
• On the rafters, wooden bars of the lathing are fixed, but with a sufficiently large step. There should be no more than two or three for each slope, so that they do not block sunlight.
• Sheets of polycarbonate are laid on the crate, which are fixed to it using special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.

• Having completed the fastening of the covering material on the slopes, it is similarly mounted on the pediment parts of the roof.
• After that, the door frame and the door itself are installed. It is desirable that the door leaf also be equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating optimal conditions for plants in the greenhouse

Thermal insulation of the greenhouse

In a greenhouse with a gable roof, one of its ramps must necessarily go to the south side. The second side inside the greenhouse is recommended to finish. Such a system will help not only to keep warm, but even increase the illumination inside the structure, since the sun, falling on the insulation foil, will be reflected in the room.

The insulation is fixed on the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is bent on the wall and glued to its surface with liquid nails. In the same way, all the walls of the greenhouse are insulated, only the transparent southern slope is left uninsulated, and you can leave the western end transparent side of the structure.

It should be noted that foil foamed polyethylene is an excellent vapor barrier membrane, and is able not only to enhance the illumination of the greenhouse, but also to keep water vapor and carbon dioxide inside, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

In order for the heat not to leave the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable tightness of the space of the greenhouse. To do this, it is imperative to install doors or latches on the ventilation openings, on which it will be possible to set the necessary clearance as necessary or close them completely.

Greenhouse heating system

2. The coefficient of infiltration depends on the difference between the external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

3. The temperature inside the greenhouse (indicated in the formula t1), usually taken equal to:

• For growing seedlings - + 25 ° C;
• For the normal development of vegetable beds - + 18 ° C.

If some exotic plants are grown, then the corresponding values \u200b\u200bare accepted.

4. Outside temperature ( t2) accept, based on their meteorological observations in a particular region, the minimum during the coldest week during the planned greenhouse use season.

5. Indices of thermal conductivity ( wtp), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transmitted outward by a coating of 1 m² with a temperature difference of 1 ° C depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values \u200b\u200bfor the most commonly used materials for coating stationary greenhouses:

Having all the necessary data, it will not be difficult to calculate the required power of electric heating of the greenhouse. Even simpler is to use the online calculator below.

There are several reasons why the film is used for sheltering the greenhouse. Highlight the most significant:

• material very light, accordingly, the process of installation and installation of the structure is greatly simplified;
• such a greenhouse is good lets air through  and sunlightproviding optimal conditions for growing plants;
• the film has light weightbut differs in high wear resistance and reliability.

Among cons  you can name only one, but very significant - the film is afraid of cuts.

It is worth highlighting in a separate category covering nonwovens. They are increasingly used to equip greenhouses and greenhouses. On the market, products are presented in a wide range, you can choose, for example, spanbond, agrompan, agrotex  other.

Distinctive advantages  non-woven materials:

• they pass UV rays and moisture well, but are characterized by the presence of a stabilizer, which completely eliminates the harmful effects of sunlight on the plants grown;
• non-woven materials guarantee the maintenance of an optimal microclimate, as they do not absorb excess moisture. The soil also does not dry out;
• the greenhouse itself heats up quickly, and cools down slowly;
• caring for such a surface is as simple as possible.

Often gardeners ask themselves: is it possible to use ordinary cling film as a covering material for a greenhouse? The answer will be unequivocal: not. The fact is that these products are made of high pressure polyethylene. In this regard, does not possess high strength.

Choose the material for the frame

The frame is of key importance in the structure of the greenhouse, as it provides it sustainability  in relation to strong gusts of wind and temperature changes. That is why the frame, first of all, should be reliable.

Agrovlokno for the greenhouse and other materials for shelter

In addition to the film for sheltering the greenhouse, you can use a number of other materials. In particular:

• glass. It well insulates the room, transmits light. But each sheet of glass weighs a lot, which suggests the arrangement of a reinforced frame. The material itself is very fragile;
• agrofibre. Synthetic canvas, similar in properties to non-woven. It is presented in an incredibly wide range. Its most famous varieties are agrospan, agrotex, spunbnot, agril, as well as Pegasus – agro, lutrasil and others;
• cellular polycarbonate. It is characterized by high translucency, thermal insulation. The strength of the sheets is enough to withstand strong hail, gusts of wind, snowfall. The material is lightweight, flexible, so it is often used to create arched structures.

Methods of attaching the film to the frame

Several methods can be distinguished:

• end rails. Non-reinforced film often breaks on nails from strong gusts of wind. And this method allows you to avoid unpleasant consequences: the material is attached only at the ends of the structure;
• rail. It involves the use of wooden battens, screws or nails for attaching a film. A packing tape is also suitable: you can fix it with brackets;

Note!  This option is only suitable for wooden frames!

• clips, clips. Sold at any hardware store. Significantly simplifies the procedure, moreover, they are inexpensive;
• eyelets and elastic cord.  The fixation system involves the snap-in of the PFH in the profile along with the film (on the side walls, roofs, ends of the structure).

Note!  Only suitable for a strong film, better with the addition of a cuff.

• rope, harness, elastic cord.  The main condition that you must adhere to is to dress the greenhouse in the form of Z, that is, diagonally between two parallel cords;
• grid.  First of all, the greenhouse is covered with a film, then - with a grid. The latter is tied to the body.

Film Bonding Methods

All methods of gluing a film can be divided into hot  and cold.

Hot. You need to prepare a soldering iron (or iron), fluoroplastic tape.

• we put the film canvases on top of each other. The overlap width should be 1-2 cm;
• using an iron or a soldering iron tip, we slowly conduct it over the surface through the fluoroplastic tape.

Most likely, it will not turn out right away, so at first it’s better to practice.

There is another method that involves using blowtorch and wide strips of metal  (5-10 cm).

• two canvases of the film are laid between a flat surface and strips of metal so that an overlap of 1-1.5 cm is obtained;
• using a blowtorch we heat the joint.

Note!  It is important not to overheat the metal, otherwise the film under it will simply melt!

Cold  Assume the use of various adhesive compositions, such as Bf-4, Bf-2, "Moment". Prior to commencement of work, the places of intended bonding on the film surface chromic anhydride  (25% solution is suitable).

If you use polyamide film, glue will do. PC5. But after gluing, the seam will need to be additionally ironed with a heated iron (approximately, up to 50-60 ° C).

You can also use special superglue for gluing a plastic film. In this case, the seam will turn out not only durable, but also smooth.

Note!  Hot-melt adhesive for gluing joints will not work!

Preparatory stages

Not only its effectiveness, but also the qualitative, quantitative characteristics of the crop directly depend on the choice, compliance with the installation rules.

You can choose one of the varieties of structures, based on the tasks assigned to you:

• by the term of use - spring-summer and;
• by type of construction - and hangar, block and tunnel;
• by construction method - shelving, hydroponic or ground;
• by appointment - seedlings and;
• by type of coating used - from polymer, glass or film;
• according to the material of which the frame is made - wooden, aluminum, plastic, galvanized.

After you decide on the type of structure, you need to choose the most suitable place for its installation, focusing to the cardinal points. In this regard, there are two main positions:

• latitudinal: the sides of the structure are oriented in the north and south directions, the facades in the east and west;
• meridional: lateral slopes face west and east, while the facades of the greenhouse face north and south.

To install the greenhouse must be sunny. Ideally, choose a site on which the snow cover is coming off earlier.

The territory allotted for the construction must be carefully prepared:

• it must be cleaned of garbage;
• check that there are no holes in the ground;
• the surface should be flat: the presence of a slope will inevitably lead to a skew of the structure.

If it is not possible to find a completely flat area, the foundation under the greenhouse is laid without fail. You can use various materials: timber, blocks, concrete.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a greenhouse under a film

Step 1
  We carefully prepare the territory allotted for construction. Tamp the soil well. A box of boards in the corners is reinforced with reinforcement.


Step 2
  Along the perimeter of the foundation, we fix several rods of reinforcement. It is important that they are equally spaced from each other. A construction of 3 × 6 m will take about 35 rods.

We dig the rods into the ground to a depth of half a meter and carefully strengthen them.

Please note: the height of the rods should be at least 0.6 m above the ground.

Step 3
  After the rods are strengthened, you need to wear PVC pipes on them (cut in advance). This will allow connecting reinforcing bars located opposite each other.


Step 4
  Using a screwdriver, we fix the PVC pipes with metal loops.

Step 5
  We carry out additional strengthening of the structure using a beam (a section of 50 x 50 mm is ideal)


Step 6
The corners of the structure are reinforced with a beam. This will significantly increase its reliability.


Step 7
  We connect several PVC pipes together. It is important that their total length is equal to the length of the greenhouse. The next step is to fix the long pipe to the transverse.


Step 8
  We cover the finished structure with a film. You can use any of the methods described in this article (section "Methods of attaching the film to the frame of the greenhouse")


Step 9
  We tape the front and back of the frame.

In the place intended for the doorway, the film is adjusted inward.

• We take measurements of the doorway;
• We knock down the beam, according to the data obtained;
• We fix the film and cut off its excess;
• We fix the door to the frame of the greenhouse using metal hinges;
• In the same way we install window leaves.

Conclusion

If you want, you can build such a greenhouse in a couple of days. This is a summer option that does not require heating and special care. At the same time, your costs for the purchase of materials will be minimal.

Useful video

How easy it is to build a greenhouse for a film with your own hands, see the video below:

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Advantages and disadvantages of a plastic film greenhouse, popular frame designs. The choice of material for coating and methods of its fastening, technology of assembly of the building.

Features of the design of greenhouses made of plastic film

The most popular bases for polyethylene are arched (metal or plastic) and wooden frame-type structures. As a rule, their sizes do not exceed the indicated values: length - 6-7 m, width - 2.4 m, height - 2.5 m.

The arched greenhouse has a roof made in the form of an arc. It has the following advantages:

• Ease of installation;
• Low cost of building materials for the construction of the frame;
• Good illumination due to the large surface area of \u200b\u200bpolyethylene;
• In winter, snow does not accumulate, so the film can not be removed for this period.

From the point of view of operation, the facilities are divided into winter and summer. Winter made from reinforced film and have a complex device that includes various systems - heating, fire and others. Often they are buried in the ground for 1-2 m.

Summer buildings are usually quick-assembled to dismantle for the winter. The frame is made of plastic, metal or wood.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic film greenhouses

1. It is the cheapest of all products for a similar purpose. Its use allows you to save financial investment in construction.
2. The film for greenhouses does not leak moisture and reliably protects crops from heavy rains.
3. It is flexible and able to withstand large tensile loads. The ability to stretch facilitates the installation process.
4. The product is conveniently mounted on a frame made of any material.
5. The film passes oxygen and carbon dioxide and does not absorb ultraviolet light and most of the solar spectrum. The coating scatters direct sunlight, which increases the yield.
6. The sizes of modern polyethylene products remain unchanged throughout the entire life cycle. They do not change under the influence of wind and precipitation.
7. The fungus does not take root on the film, it is non-toxic, odorless.
8. The material is safe for plants.
9. It resists acids and alkalis.

• It is characterized by poor weather resistance, so it quickly fails. Over time, even a dense product becomes brittle.
• Reduced transparency due to the property of the material being electrified and attracting dust. The greenhouse cover must be washed frequently to increase its light transmittance. Also, the film becomes cloudy under the influence of oxygen, moisture and ultraviolet radiation.
• Loss of shape due to elasticity, which leads to sagging of the panel.

Film Greenhouse Construction Technology

The techniques for erecting structures of various designs are largely similar. Construction is carried out in several stages. About each of them is written below.

The choice of plastic film

1. The main characteristic of polyethylene is its density. The ability to withstand the load from wind and precipitation and to transmit light depends on it. The larger it is, the worse the lighting inside. Products of low density are easily torn and may fail before the end of the season. The best option to meet these requirements is considered a material with characteristics of 150-200 microns.
2. The width of the panel depends on the size of the structure. Small tunnel greenhouses (for example, for cucumbers) can be covered with samples 3 m wide.
3. For large stationary buildings, it is recommended to buy 6-meter products. Usually they are sold folded in half, in the form of sleeves, 3 m wide. Before pulling, the cuts are cut.
4. If the width is not enough, the individual parts are glued or welded.

• Unstable film. It transmits up to 80% of thermal and ultraviolet energy, so it’s cold at night underneath. It is characterized by low wear resistance, despite the addition of light stabilizers, which increase mechanical strength. Service life is 5-6 months. One of the few advantages is the low price.
• Stabilized hydrophilic film. It contains stabilizing additives that increase light resistance. Often produced in various colors - blue, orange, pink. They are distinguished by a special surface structure, which allows condensation to form. Moisture rolls down without droplets. The material is impregnated with antistatic agents that prevent the accumulation of static electricity and dust. The surface always remains transparent. The canvas does not pass infrared rays, so at night a little heat leaves through it. Reducing daily temperature fluctuations increases the productivity of the garden.
• Light scattering film. Depending on the additives, it may reflect light or absorb ultraviolet light. The product distributes light evenly over the entire area. If the site is located in the shade, you must select a material that transmits more light. Under such a coating, unpleasant moments do not arise when leaves are burned on a plant due to a drop of water. The risk of damage to cucumbers, which are recommended to be watered in the middle of the day, is reduced.
• Heat holding film. It has an increased level of absorption of thermal energy. Under it, the temperature is 1-3 degrees higher than in other designs. Its use allows you to increase productivity by 10-30%. It is easily recognizable by its matte white hue. But the coating has a small margin of safety and withstands only 9 months of operation.
• Reinforced film. Durable material reinforced with dense threads forming 6x12 mm cells. The coating can last more than 2 years. In winter, you can not remove it. But it passes thermal energy 10-12% lower than other samples.

Preparatory work

Perform the following operations:

1. Choose a place to build. Greenhouses are built on a flat, well-lit place with an average level of humidity, with soil of the same composition.
2. It is recommended to prepare the soil in the fall, so as not to lose time on its treatment in the springtime. The site must be dug up, fertilizer applied, leveled with a rake.
3. Perform work that cannot be carried out after installation, for example, if the greenhouse is year-round, install a heating system under the beds.
4. In places of installation of power elements, compact the soil.
5. Treat wooden elements with antiseptic agents. Without protective impregnation, lumber will rot in a few years.

Mounting the frame under a plastic wrap

For work, you need such materials:

• Pipes - metal or plastic with a diameter of 25-30 mm. The film is attached to them.
• Tarred timber or logs with a cross section of 100x100 mm, treated with antiseptic agents that are used as a base. The massive lower part of the structure will give the structure rigidity.
• Metal pins or fittings with a length of about 1 m and a diameter of 15-20 mm, with which the base is attached to the ground.
• Metal rods 80-100 cm long, on which plastic pipes are put on. The pins should be of such diameters that plastic pipes can be put on them.
• You will also need additional pipes, which are laid on top of the arcs and on the sides of the structure, in two rows, to give it rigidity.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Assemble a box of beams that will support the entire structure and provide it with rigidity. Put it in a prepared place.
2. Drive metal pins into the ground at the corners of the box to secure the product.
3. Along the long sides of the base, drive metal rods into the soil to a depth of 50 cm onto which arches will be worn. The same amount should go out. The distance between them is 50-60 cm.
4. For each pair of pins located on opposite sides of the box, put on plastic pipes so that you get an arc. The length of the element can be determined empirically. To do this, helpers will be needed: one puts the pipe on the pin, the second holds it in the middle of the greenhouse, and the third - outlines the cut for the second pin. The remaining pipes can be cut according to the first sample, using it as a template.
5. Fix the elements in their places with mounting loops that are fastened with screws to the box.
6. Reinforce the structure with 5 x 5 cm timber props, placing them at the ends of the structure.
7. On top of the arcs, lay a plastic pipe that will provide stability to the greenhouse.
8. On the sides of the pipe, fix with two rows of rail-runs. Fasten them with bolts or welding. You can fix the metal elements with a bolted connection, but for this you need to weld the brackets to the arches. Do not drill holes in the arcs; you will loosen the structure.
9. Knock down the door frame and fasten it to one of the ends of the greenhouse.
10. According to the size of the box, make the door frame. Cover it with foil and fix it in a regular place.
11. Similarly, make ventilation vents. They settle down at the ends of the structure, above the door, as high as possible.
12. If the building is large, inside you can build shelves with land.
13. After constructing the frame, fasten the film.

Attaching the film to the frame

When covering the greenhouse with a wooden frame with a film, you must adhere to the following rules:

• Beams in the places of fastening of polyethylene should be sanded and painted with light paint that reflects sunlight.
• The easiest way is to use glazing beads or battens that press the canvas. They are fixed with nails. This option has drawbacks - over time, the tree will dry out, and the material is held only by nails. In this case, the polyethylene breaks quickly.
• To extend the life of the coating, treat the slats with an antiseptic and paint, and use screws instead of nails. Screw fasteners through 20-25 cm.
• A more reliable method of fastening is the use of pads. They are made of wooden planks with a length of 10 cm and a width equal to the thickness of the frame. Round the edges of the bar and sand it. Cover the surface of the workpiece with rubber glue and wrap it in several layers with plastic wrap. Make the required number of pads, based on their installation in increments of 20 cm.
• Pull the fabric and coat it with rubber glue in the place where the pads are placed. Set the workpiece in the intended place and secure it with wood screws.
• You can use a plastic packing tape to fix the coating, which does not deteriorate and does not lend itself to deformation. It is attached to the lumber with a stapler.
• A more economical way is to cut strips of old linoleum, stick to the film and secure with a construction stapler.
• To fix around windows and doors, cut the canvas with a margin, wrap it around the rack several times, and then nail.

It is allowed to use coarse wire mesh or cord for fastening the panel. Before using the rope, first tighten the cloth and temporarily fasten it. Lock the cord in the lower corner of the greenhouse. Throw over the top and pull. Then pass the cord under the longitudinal rail and throw it back in a zigzag pattern. The cord is also stretched from the inside so that the coating rests on it.

The film can not be expanded and not cut. Pass the cord into the sleeve and fasten at the bottom of the greenhouse. Throw the workpiece through the structure and repeat the operation. Pull the next section with an overlap of 15 cm to the first. This method increases the consumption of material, but extends its service life.

The fabric is best fastened to reinforcement with special clothespins.

Plastic hardly warms up in the sun, therefore it does not require insulation. In stores you can find special clips for fixing the film to the frame, but you can make them yourself. To do this, cut pieces of pipe 8-10 cm long and cut them lengthwise. Process the edges of the cuts with a sandpaper and remove sharp edges and corners. For fastening, tighten the plastic and press it to the pipes made with clamps.

Film Welding Rules

Soldering iron is performed in the following sequence:

1. Wrap a flat rail with a section of 25-40 mm with a thick cloth.
2. Lay it on a flat table with the wide side.
3. Put the edges of the pieces of polyethylene on the rail with an overlap and fix with a load.
4. Cover the joints with newspaper so that the plastic film does not stick to the tool.
5. Heat the soldering iron or iron to 120-140 degrees.
6. Practice on an unnecessary piece of polyethylene to determine the speed of the tool. You can’t keep it in one place for a long time, but moving it quickly is also not recommended.
7. Iron the joints with an iron or a soldering iron.

How to make a greenhouse from a film - look at the video:

In many areas you can find greenhouses and greenhouses coated with a plastic film. At the same time, gardeners manage to use this coating not only for seasonal greenhouses, but also for greenhouses operated all year round.

For this, special frameworks and certain technologies are used to grow plants under a film coating in severe frosts.

Today we will not consider the issue of growing plants under a film in the winter, but we will talk about the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses with a film coating, the film itself and how to assemble it.

First, we will analyze the main differences between greenhouses and greenhouses.

The main difference between these two structures designed for the same purposes is the method of servicing plants.

Greenhouses - Pros and Cons

A greenhouse is a structure in which seedlings and plants are grown, and they are cared for outside.

If in growing seedlings the hotbeds do their job perfectly, then in growing plants, to obtain fruits, the gardener may encounter certain difficulties.

• For example, in a greenhouse it is very difficult to trim plants.
• The shading of some leaves by others leads to the fact that the leaves in the shaded areas begin to turn yellow and die.
• Maintenance and ventilation of the greenhouse is carried out by full, or partial opening of the covering cover of the greenhouse, another method of maintenance simply does not exist.
• This action leads to the fact that a sharp temperature drop occurs inside the greenhouse.

Experienced gardeners know that a change in temperature more than 2 degrees in 15 minutest leads to a halt in plant growth, the productivity of photosynthesis is disrupted, and the plant loses its accumulated nutrients. As a result, a significant decrease in yield. (Cm. )

Greenhouses - Pros and Cons

The greenhouse, like the greenhouse, is intended for growing seedlings and plants. But unlike the greenhouse, plant maintenance is carried out by the gardener directly inside the structure.

• Linking plants to the trellis allows you to use as much of the interior space of the greenhouse as possible.

Our information - Tapestry - a cord, rope or wire stretched vertically or at an angle. Used in gardening to tie plants.

• A greenhouse is much more convenient in terms of plant maintenance, watering, and harvesting.

The main types of plants in greenhouses and greenhouses

The following crops are grown in greenhouses:

• radishes, spinach, lettuce, beans, dill, stunted tomatoes, peppers. (Cm. )

In greenhouses, mainly:

• cucumbers, curled beans, tomatoes, eggplant, pepper.

Covering greenhouses and greenhouses

When building a greenhouse or greenhouse, each gardener has a question, what kind of coating should be used for construction, glass or film?

  Each of these coatings has its pros and cons.

Glass - all the advantages and disadvantages

Let us briefly analyze the main ones.

• For the construction of a greenhouse with a glazed coating, a mandatory foundation of a powerful foundation is required. Otherwise, there is a high probability of glass cracking from deformation of the frame of the greenhouse.
• All glass-coated greenhouses have a powerful frame. Because of this, the frames of the greenhouse have a significant thickness, which cannot but affect the loss of a certain percentage of the illumination of plants.
• With heavy snowfall the glass can easily break.

The obvious advantages of a glass coating include the following:

• Although such greenhouses warm up much more slowly from exposure to sunlight, they have a much lower risk of frost.
• The coating does not require annual replacement, just wash the glass surface once or twice a year.
• The correct location of the angle of inclination of the walls, significantly reduces the reflectivity of the glass, increasing the rational use of sunlight.

Glass or film is your choice

• Unlike a glass surface, do-it-yourself greenhouses under the film do not require a mandatory foundation.
• The frame of such structures is much lighter with the same resistance to external influences.

Our reference - film is almost 70 times lighter than glass.

• Greenhouses under the film warm up much faster from sunlight.
• Coverage is cheap and does not require serious material investments.
• Annual replacement of the coating does not have a significant impact on the budget of gardeners.
• A clear minus of such a coating can be called a high threat of frost and a large range of temperature fluctuations during the day.

Coating and insulation

When planning to build a greenhouse or film greenhouses with your own hands, you need to clearly understand for yourself that any thin, and even more transparent surface, is poor thermal insulation.

• In other words, although the film does not allow water and air to pass through, it is a poor heat insulator and the cold outside will cool the air inside the greenhouse in contact with the film.
• The warm air rising up, reaching the greenhouse roof made of plastic film, cools very quickly and drops down.
• Such a circuit significantly increases heat loss.
• You can reduce them using a two-layer coating in this design.
• The air located between the layers of the plastic film will serve as a heat insulator, significantly reducing heat loss.

Frameworks of greenhouses and hotbeds

Metal carcass

Typically, a do-it-yourself greenhouse made of film has the following dimensions:

• Length 6000 - 7000 mm
• Width 2400 mm
• Height 2500 mm

If you decided to use metal in the construction of the frame, then a pipe with a diameter of 25 - 30 mm.

• For the base of the greenhouse, tarred timber or old sleepers with impregnation are well suited.
• When using a wooden base, holes are drilled under it for arches, to a depth 70 - 100 mm. In this case, the installation step of the arches varies within 1000 - 1500 mm.

If you decide to use metal as the base of the greenhouse, then the best option is to make the base from the corner.

• In this case, the arches are attached to the base with a welded joint or bolted.
• A ridge rail must be installed on top of the arches; it connects the arches.
• On the sides you need to install two rows of rails - runs.
• Bolts are best suited for their fastening, but welding can also be used.
• If you will use a bolted connection, weld previously to the arches of the bracket.
• The runs are bolted directly to the brackets. Do not drill holes in the arches for the bolts, this action will weaken the structure.

Film - calculation of quantity per greenhouse

Many are interested in the issue of calculating the film for a greenhouse. In this example, proceed as follows:

• The greenhouse is 7000 mm long and 2500 mm high.

• The width of the film roll is 3000 mm.

The calculation is done according to the following formula: height * 2 is added to the length of the greenhouse and 1000 mm is taken from this amount. There will be two such panels.

• (7000+2500*2)-1000=11000
• 11000*2=22000

Result: 22 meters of film, 3000 mm wide, are required.

Wooden frame of the greenhouse

When constructing greenhouses or hotbeds under the film with their own hands, many use wood for their frame. A reasonable question - how to build such a greenhouse?

• For the manufacture of such a greenhouse, a beam of a minimum cross section of 50X50 mm will be required.
• Before building a greenhouse or a greenhouse from a film with your own hands from a bar, it must be treated with a protective antiseptic.
• The beam is well impregnated with an antiseptic, possibly in several layers and is well dried.
• For the foundation, it is necessary to use a bar with a cross section of at least 50X100 mm or arrange a concrete base. It all depends on the size of the greenhouse and your preference. If you want to get a major structure, the foundation is best made of concrete.
• Racks are cut by their bar with a section of 50X50 mm. It will take four beams for the side walls and two for the end walls.
• In order to correctly calculate the size and number of racks of your greenhouse, all the bars are laid out on a flat surface and carefully measured.

The same applies to the bars forming the roof. The ridge beam in this case completes the construction.

The greenhouse is frame

Many people wonder - how to make a gable, wooden, frame greenhouse?

• The basis of this design are enclosing frames. Frames are made of bars with a section of 40X30 mm.
• When making frames, their width must be calculated based on the size of the plastic film that is commercially available in your area.
• Most often, the width of the frames is 1500 mm, and the height can reach 1500 -1800 mm.
• The film on the frames must be pulled in two layers.
• Finished frames are inserted into the frame of the greenhouse.
• The wooden frame is made of timber with a cross section of 750x400 mm. If the frame is made of metal, then for this it is best to use a corner with a cross section of 25 mm.
• In the wooden frame of the greenhouse, a groove is selected in which the frames are inserted. The frames are attached to the wooden frame with nails.
• Frames through which the greenhouse will be ventilated are hung on hinges.
• You can install ventilation frames both on the side walls and on the roof.

Film coating - installation methods and care

You make a greenhouse or a greenhouse with your own hands under the film, an important design element is the coating.

Regardless of the size and operational characteristics of such structures, most of them use a plastic film.

Main advantages

The advantage of this material is its low cost, elasticity, while strength.

• The size of the film coating practically does not change during operation, even under the influence of adverse weather events.
• The film is not susceptible to fungi, odorless and non-toxic.
• It does not adversely affect plants.
• The plastic film is water and vapor tight.
• Passes carbon dioxide and oxygen relatively well.
• Well suited for mounting on a rigid frame.
• It is well resistant to alkalis and acids.

The disadvantages of film coating

However, the plastic film has certain disadvantages.

• Over time, it becomes fragile.
• Poor resistance to oils.
• From exposure to ultraviolet rays, moisture and oxygen, the film becomes cloudy. Which negatively affects its light transmission.
• Relatively short life, maximum 1,5 - 3 years.

Types of films - basic specifications

Commercially available have different specifications. When building a greenhouse or a greenhouse with your own hands from a film, this fact must be taken into account.

Reinforced film

• There is a plastic film reinforced with low pressure polyethylene.
• A distinctive feature of such products is its increased reliability in operation.
• The thickness of such a film is usually 0.29-0.32 mm.
• Unlike stabilized polyethylene film, this material has 10 – 13%   lower permeability of solar radiation.

If you will operate this material on your site, you need to know that its service life is 2-3 years. At the same time, the film must be washed during operation at least once a year. Otherwise, due to dust coating, the light transmittance of the film is significantly reduced.

Copolymer Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Film

Unlike the above films, the ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer film is much more flexible.

• It is lightfast, perfectly resists wind load and external mechanical stress.
• The ultraviolet bandwidth is about 92% and it protects plants well from thermal radiation.
• The service life of this material is 5 - 6 years.
• The low dustiness of this film is due to its surface qualities, good antistaticity and hydrophilicity.

Our reference - Hydrophilicity - increased surface wettability.

• Increased hydrophilic properties of the film, due to the formation of flat-drop condensate on its inner surface.

• The water layer is about 2 mm and is an excellent heat insulator at night.

On sale is a copolymer ethylene vinyl acetate film of individual manufacturers, whose service life is 8 years.

Film welding

When erecting greenhouses with their own hands under the film, many are wondering - how to connect individual panels?

In the distribution network, plastic film is sold in sleeves with a width of 1500 mm. Thus, when turning, a panel with a width of 3000 mm is obtained.

Our reference is a polyethylene-reinforced film sold 2000 mm wide.

Naturally, when building a greenhouse or a greenhouse under a film with their own hands, people encounter such a problem as the mismatch of the width of the existing film with the supporting frame of the structure being constructed. This problem can be solved by welding individual panels of the film.

Weld with a soldering iron, iron

• For welding, we need a flat table or long boards. For convenience, you can install them on the goats and gently grab a pair of nails.
• Next, we need to lay a rail on the surface of the makeshift table, which must first be wrapped with a thick, thick cloth.
• The width of the rail should have 30 - 40 mm with a thickness of 20 - 25 mm.
• The edges of the panels of the welded film are laid on a width of 30 - 40 mm. The film must be lapped, flattened and pressed with any load.
• In order to avoid welding the film to the used welding devices, a layer of cellophane should be laid on the seam.

Our reference - you can use an old working iron or a soldering iron for welding. These tools are carried out along the aligned edges of the film being welded, while the heating of the tool should be 120 - 140 ° C.

When welding the film in this way, you may have a question about the speed of welding.

Our advice - before you weld the main panels, practice on small pieces of the film you bought. Thus, you will precisely determine the temperature and speed mode of welding.

Blowtorch welding

When constructing film greenhouses with your own hands and welding individual panels of film, you need to know that welding can be carried out without the use of an iron and a soldering iron.

After all, it is not always possible to resort to the help of electricity, but in some areas it simply does not exist. In this case, welding can be carried out using a blowtorch.

To do this, you will need:

• Blowtorch

• Putty knife. For this type of work, a rubber spatula is well suited, which is used in finishing works for applying, glue, mastic and sealing joints in tiles or parquet. If there is no rubber spatula, you can use a regular flat board.
• Smooth rail or board.
• Smooth surface.

Welding is performed as follows:

• The sheets are laid on a flat surface and aligned at the edges.
• At a distance of 10 - 12 mm from the edge of the panels to be welded, a rail is laid, it should lie with equal indentation along the entire length of the seam. The rail is pressed against the panels.

Gable frame.

• After all residues of vegetation have been removed from the greenhouse, the film must be washed. In this case, the film is washed directly on.
• They remove the film only after it dries well. To do this, it is best to choose a calm day.
• First, the film is fixed, fixed to the ends of the greenhouse.
• The ends of the panels must be thrown onto the roof of the greenhouse and left in this position for some time. This is necessary in order to ventilate the greenhouse and dry the condensate on the inner surface of the coating.
• If you plan to use the film in the future, remove it carefully. After the condensate has completely dried, the film is removed and rolled up. Next, it must be bandaged with twine.

If there are several film-coated greenhouses in your area, you must mark each rolled up roll. In the future, it will be very simple for you to determine which cover is from which greenhouse.